Why Hong Kong loves white truffles so much - and why they're so expensive: From 'truffle king' Umberto Bombana to Stanley Ho's record-breaking tubers, inside the city's lust for 'white gold'
It's that time of year again when foodies get excited — no, not about pecans and all kinds of pumpkin spice, but about the ever-elusive white truffle. Known as "white gold" and "diamonds of the culinary world", and only available between October and December,the arrival of white trufflesin fine dining restaurants it serves as an annual reminder that fall is just around the corner. And of all the different types of truffles out there, the Italian Alba white truffle is the rarest of them all, and can even be more expensive than gold itself, ounce for ounce.
In 2021, an 850-gram white Alba truffle sold for €103,000 ($110,000), while a year later a 950-gram sample fetched €184,000 ($196,000). Both were sold through the annual Alba White Truffle World Auction – a charity event held every November in Piedmont, Italy, featuring the world's biggest and best white truffles – and both were purchased by bidders from Hong Kong. In fact, in the auction's 23-year history, there have only been a handful of times in which the winning bidderdoesn'tFrom Hong Kong.
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Yet these numbers pale in comparisonthe late Stanley Ho– the gambling magnate and white truffle connoisseur from Hong Kong and Macau – paid for his record-breaking tubers in 2007 and 2009. At £3.3 (1.5kg) and £2.86 (1.3kg) respectively, they remain two of the most expensive white truffles ever sold at a whopping $330,000 each.
Meet the 'king' among the white truffles
“Hong Kong is a real hotspot for white truffles,” says Umberto Bombana, chef and co-owner of 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, who first tasted the prized ingredient at the age of 13. “My grandmother worked as a chef preparing a meal for an aristocratic family, and I was able to taste some white truffles in a simple pasta. The aroma and taste have captured my imagination ever since.'
Hailed as the "King of White Truffles", Bombana was appointed global ambassador for the white truffle by the Piedmontese regional Enoteca Cavour in 2006 and regularly organizes the Alba White Truffle World Auction ofhis three Michelin star restaurant in Hong Kong. This year's event will be streamed live there on November 12 from Piedmont's Grinzane Cavour Castle, with proceeds from the Hong Kong event going to Mother's Choice, a local charity serving children without families and pregnant teenagers.
Why are Alba white truffles so expensive?
First of all, they are seasonal, grown in the wild and can only be harvested once a year. Secondly, they are extremely picky and sensitive to changes in temperature and climate, meaning that small changes affect their scarcity and supply. Searching for truffles is also a laborious process that requires hunters and dogs to unearth the hidden gems by hand. Once harvested, they must be quickly transported around the world and consumed within ten days.
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“A great truffle has a depth and complexity that transcends the senses,” says Alberto Perez, Asia director of Sabatino Tartufi Hong Kong, one of the world's leading truffle suppliers with 110 years of history. “The aroma can take over an entire room in seconds, and like a great kiss, it cannot be described but experienced.”
Matteo Morello, founder of Castellana, an Italian restaurant in Central, Hong Kong, agrees: “The smell of the truffle can tell you if it is of good quality. In Piedmont we consider the very best white truffles to be those that are light pink on the inside. Although these truffles may not grow very large, they have an extremely intense aroma that is highly sought after."
The shape and size-to-weight ratio of the white truffle also matter, says Maurizio Pace, executive chef at LPM Restaurant & Bar, in H Queen's, Central. “It gives an indication of the soil in which the truffle has matured and how fresh it is,” he says. “I would also look at the color, moisture content and aroma. Like a good wine, the truffle can have notes of hazelnut, walnut and so on."
Where do most of the truffles in Hong Kong come from?
When asked where their white truffles come from, most restaurants prefer not to name their actual supplier, but claim they come from Alba. That said, not all Italian white truffles come from the Alba region of Piedmont.
“Since Alba is a small area in Italy, [Alba] cannot possibly supply truffles to the whole world,” Perez explains, adding that Tuscany, Umbria and Emilia-Romagna are also important areas for white truffle production.
“While it is true that Alba truffles have a certain unique character, Italy is home to a wealth of remarkable white truffles. Furthermore, the highest quality Italian white truffles are not exported, but delivered directly to restaurants willing to pay a 50 to 70 percent premium above market price. As long as they come from Italy, they can be considered good quality.”
How to cook with truffles
When it comes to enjoying the white truffles themselves, experts agree that simplicity is key. Bombana suggests simple dishes just before serving, such as scrambled eggs or pasta with a little butter and white truffle shavings on top. “You don't cook truffles because the heat will kill the aroma,” he explains.
For Morello, his favorite way to enjoy white truffle is withLawyer– a light Italian custard dessert. “This brings back fond memories of growing up in Piedmont and the way my grandmother rewarded us for being well behaved at lunch,” he says.
“Personally, I think the best way to enjoy white truffles is with homemade fettuccine, a pinch of sea salt and a generous amount of high-quality butter,” says Perez. "It is important not to overpower the basic flavors, but to let the unique taste and aroma of the truffle transport you to the enchanting Italian forest in winter."
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Try the truffle dishes in Hong Kong this year
As the white truffle season kicks off in Hong Kong, the city's top chefs have already come up with a host of dishes to surprise guests.
LPM introduces four different dishes with white truffle, including:white truffle burrata, a soft and creamy burrata dressed with white truffle vinaigrette and finished with freshly shaved white truffle, plus a house-made rigatoni mixed with a light cream sauce, topped with shaved white truffle and Parmesan cheese.
Another paste option is LPMshomemade white truffle gnocchi, which Pace describes as “little soft pillows of joy that pair perfectly with white truffle.” Purists can also enjoy the simple but delicious LPMswhite truffle eggs– a plate of perfectly scrambled eggs with cream and white truffle shavings on top.
At Castellana, chef Romeo Morelli has planned a four-course tasting menu that includes porcini tart with egg yolk and white truffle and seared quail with fresh asparagus and white truffle. Alternatively, white truffles can be added to any of their a la carte menu items.
This year, the king of the white truffles is introducing a new dish of veal carpaccio, topped with white truffle shavings, at 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana.
For something different, head to Castellana's sister restaurant Perla on the Sky Dining on the International Commerce Center (ICC) floor, where chef Fabiano Palombini combines white truffles with seafood and fish.
“One of my favorite ways to enjoy white truffle is with fish soup or with a steamed fish dish,” he says. “The steam enhances the flavor of the white truffle shaved on top. Fish is also full of collagen and fatty oils, which help balance the dry properties of white truffle.”
However you enjoy your white truffles, the time to enjoy them is short and fleeting, so buy them while you can. So the big question: Will Hong Kongers once again outbid competing foodies from around the world at this year's Alba White Truffle World Auction and bring the biggest and most exquisite Alba white truffles to the city? It's the tuber continued…
