Winter is here and I have to think about the things I need to do to prepare my coop and my chickens for their winter coop. To wait,What?I have a winter setup and checklist for my chickens? Why yes, yes I do! And maybe it's something you should take into account too! In fact, you should fully prepare for this before winter arrives. But often you are like me and procrastinate until it really needs to be done. Welcome to the real chicken team.
There are some general things you should do when preparing your chickens and coop for winter. A winter chicken coop isn't much different than any other season, but there are a few things to keep in mind. We'll talk about it all in this blog post, as well as some of the things we do on our personal farm that you might consider doing. We'll even talk about using a chicken coop heater and the deep litter method, both of which can be controversial topics, but I'll break it down for you in an unbiased way!
How to use the deep soil method for chickens in winter
If you've had chickens for a while, you've probably heard or read about "deep bedding." This is by no means a new method. In fact, it's something that farmers and homesteaders have been using for centuries.
Deep litter can be used in both your chicken coop and your chicken coop. This is achieved by adding an organic material – such as straw, pine shavings, wood shavings or even leaves – to the floor of your house or chicken coop. Every day, touch the bedding and add more bedding as needed if it starts to break.
If done properly, a winter coop won't need to be heated or cleaned until spring if you use the deep litter method for chickens. You can even throw crab pellets and feed the litter every day and let the chickens do the stirring for you!
As you continue to add layers of bedding, the bedding beneath the top layer begins to break down, much like organic matter in nature. This also generates natural heat to take the chill away on those extra cold nights.
We also do this with wood chips in our chicken coop. The winter months can bring a lot of dirty wet weather, and therefore a lot of mud. Wet chicken coops are a breeding ground for parasites, and we don't want that in chickens. We combat this by putting chips in the run and throwing away scraped grain and whole grain, which our chickens can forage in the litter. It keeps parasites at bay, keeps our chickens' feet warm (as the litter easily generates heat) and even germinates grains.
When you're ready to clean up after your pig, you can simply throw the waste in a separate composting area or put it in your yard (before spring arrives) and let it do the "dirty" work... in a good way!
The deep bedding in your chicken coop does not need to be cleaned and will break down naturally. We actually prefer to put deep litter in our run all year round.
Do they need a chicken coop heater?
It is tempting to place a heating element (such as a heat lamp) in your winter coop during the harshest winter nights, but in most cases this is really not necessary.
Chickens are very good at keeping warm on their own. In fact, the years that IherWhen I tried using a heat lamp we had more problems in the garden and with our chickens than if we didn't use one. We prepare for winter by making sure our chickens are draft-free, but still have airflow. The deep bedding also provides some extra warmth in the garden, which is natural.
However, there are some exceptions. Sometimes you can use a heat source outside your farm or in your chicken coop to keep your birds warm all day. This can be especially true in frostbite situations, especially on the birds' feet.
If you have an injured, disabled or sick chicken, a heat source for the individual bird is imperative. Heat can do amazing things for a chicken's healing process.
We do not use a heat lamp at all unless it is for chicks or a sick or injured bird. But it's really your preference!
Another thing we don't do in winter is make spacevanderein the garden as this can cause excessive moisture, ice crystals and ice on the floor. The only time we put water in the garden is during heavy snowfall. We've had a few chickens who don't use their pretty little brains and decide to take a bath in the water before bed! Talk about frozen toes and feathers!
You can also feedscratch corn or whole or broken cornbefore the rest period. This will maintain your chicken's body heat throughout the evening during the digestion process.
If you prepare accordingly, your chicks will eventually huddle together and generate their own perfectly matched warmth. Birds were made to do this. Think of the wild birds that remain behind during the winter months. They survive all weather conditions and seasons. In fact, chickens have an advantage because they have us as pets!
Protects chickens from freezing
Sometimes no matter what steps you take, chickens can develop frostbite on their combs, toes or toes. You will first see black spots on ridges and ridges. This usually involves freezing. A little bit of freezing is fine, it won't hurt your chickens at all. Toe frostbite seems to be a bigger problem if you have consistently wet or snowy weather in the winter. You will notice that your chicken's feet become very red and sometimes gray. Once they turn black, the frostbite has done its damage and there is really no way to save the toes. Sounds harsh, right?
We have had chickens that have lost the tip of their comb, but a year ago we had a crazy incident where a rooster lost the tip of his toe. Not necessarily due to the freezing itself. But from himself and the other chickens who pecked at the frostbite on his toe. You can prevent this cannibalism and curiosity with a simple ointment or ointment.
When chicken frostbite becomes more than just a spot here or there, consider making a black tick ointment to protect the areas of your chicken most prone to frostbite. You can read more about treating and preventing frostbite in chickens (including the ointment recipe) on my website.her.
Other preparations for the winter chicken farm
Our chicken coop is an 8×8 chicken coop with a tin roof. It's one of the best places to be when it's raining outside: rain on a tin roof. In the summer we have a door with wire (and only wire). But in the winter months we have to close our winter chicken coop door so that the wind does not blow on the birds. We have made a door that can easily be replaced by the wire door. It is plexiglass, so sunlight can shine into the cup and warm it up during the day. And the chicks also get enough sunlight to last through the winter months. In the photo below you can see the winter chicken door.
Another thing we like to do to prepare for winter in the coop and with our chickens: stock upChicken food. You never know when the next feed shortage or winter storm will come. This is truly something that every chicken keeper should do all year round. Make sure you have an area (such as in galvanized containers) that is free of rodents. You'll never regret having extra feed on hand, especially if there's more snow than you thought and the chickens are eating more feed than you originally planned for!
I also give my hens extra straw in the nest boxes this time of year. They like to sit there and feel comfortable. And if their feet ever get too cold, they jump into the crates and warm up before going back outside.
When you winterize your home and your chickens, make sure you prepare for the things you and your livestock will actually need. Just because a chicken coop needs one thing doesn't mean you will! But these general steps and methods can help you keep your chickens happy, healthy, and safe this winter!
Ultimately, as long as your chickens are healthy, safe, in a draft-free home, and have a mostly dry chicken, you're good to go through the winter!
