CLR® Pro Frequently Asked Questions (2024)

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Do you have a question about application or use?
Call CLR Customer Service at 800-323-5497 extension 693

In a well-ventilated area, while wearing rubber household gloves and standing on a non-slip surface, mix equal amounts of CLR and warm water. Test the solution in an inconspicuous area before applying to the entire surface. Apply directly to the limescale, limescale or rust stain with a brush, cloth or sponge and rinse immediately with cold, clean water. Never leave the CLR in a room for more than two minutes. If the stain persists, use full strength CLR, then dry and rinse immediately with cold, clean water. Never mix CLR with other household cleaners or bleaches and never reuse the bottle.

CLR can be mixed with warm water in 1 of 3 ways, depending on the stain. For light stains and tarnishing, a diluted mixture is recommended. For more stubborn build-ups, full strength is recommended, but only if the diluted solution has been tried first. Dilute 1 part CLR to 8 parts hot water, 50/50 with hot water and full strength. Rarely, depending on the situation, a dilution of 1 part to 12 parts is recommended and that was in a water fountain made of stone. And always rinse with cold water to neutralize.

Mix one part (quarter cup) of CLR with eight parts (2 cups) of water. For single-cup coffee machines, use only one CLR cap. Run through the coffee machine as if you were making coffee. Rinse thoroughly by running two full pans of cold, clean water through a full cycle. The instructions are for a regular 8-12 cup coffee maker. *Do not use CLR in coffee machines that permanently retain water. *Do not use CLR in espresso machines. *We do not recommend using CLR products in a Kuerig, Gevalia, or Cuisinart coffee maker.

Pour enough CLR to cover the bottom. Swirl around in pot or pan. Add a cup of warm water, let the mixture steep for two minutes and rinse thoroughly with cold, clean water.

Run an empty load without detergent to the main sink (run enough water before the cycle begins to agitate) and add 1/2 cup of CLR. End of cycle. Run an additional cycle with water only to "rinse position" to rinse the machine completely.

Run your empty machine without detergent to the main sink where the water stops and the cycle vibrates. Stop the machine and add half a cup of CLR. End of cycle. Run an additional full cycle (wash and rinse) with cold water only to rinse the machine completely. (See separate instructions for front loader machines)

Pour enough CLR into the humidifier to cover the bottom and use a brush or sponge to remove stains. Add warm water and soak until completely clean. Rinse thoroughly with cold, clean water.

Use only on metal filters. Dilute equal parts CLR and warm water in a plastic container. Immerse the filter in the solution for about two minutes. Brush to loosen buildup and rinse with cool, clean water. Let dry.

CLR removes the finish from aluminum and copper.

Do not use CLR on natural stone or marble, terrazzo, colored grout, painted or metallic glazed surfaces, plastic laminates, formica, aluminum, steam iron, lead crystal, refinished barrels, or any other damaged or cracked surface. CLR can etch older sinks, tubs and tiles. CLR is corrosive. Avoid contact with wood, clothing, wallpaper and carpets. Some laminated surfaces (table tops) are coated with a synthetic surface that can be affected by rust removers; clean up spills immediately.

No, CLR is naturally acidic. When using CLR in a spray bottle, the solution may "spray back" onto your clothes or into your eyes and the spray may drift.

Remove the shower head and immerse it in half CLR and half hot water. Leave CLR on for two minutes, remove and rinse to loosen buildup in the shower head. Repeat at full strength as needed and rinse thoroughly after each application. Use a brush or sponge to loosen the buildup.

Pour 1/2 warm water and 1/2 CLR into a plastic bowl and dip a clean, soft cloth or sponge into it. Apply to deposits and rub in. Rinse thoroughly with cold, clean water. If the CLR seems to have helped a bit, but the lenses aren't quite clear, repeat at full power if necessary.

If it looks like the CLR didn't help at all, the glasses may be etched and there's no way to remove the haze. The haze is actually small cuts in the glass due to deposits in the water. The only thing that can remove the etching is a goldsmith polish.

No, it is not recommended to use CLR on a car. It may drip onto aluminum or a painted surface.

No, CLR should not be used on a car radiator for two reasons. First, CLR may not be compatible with the internal metals of the radiator. Second, if the CLR is not flushed out completely, it can have negative effects.

No. There is no way to know if the CLR has been completely flushed out.

No. When CLR is mixed with oil, the concrete darkens, which is very difficult to remove. Try our product CLR to remove oil from concrete or asphalt^®Pro pull magnets.

Yes, CLR is septic safe. When it reaches the septic system, it is neutralized with water.

No. Mixing CLR with chlorine (or other household chemicals) is not safe and can lead to toxic fumes.

Unfortunately, we do not recommend using CLR on pool tiles. It can remove the finish from the tile. In addition, if CLR comes into contact with chlorine, it can result in toxic fumes.

No. The active ingredients in CLR will react with the marble. If you accidentally spill CLR on these surfaces, call a marble professional for further instructions.

No. Galvanized metal is coated with zinc. Zinc should never come into contact with anything that is too acidic. This causes a chemical reaction with the zinc layer and discolours.

No, CLR cannot be used on cast iron; the acids in CLR react with the metal.

CLR should not be stored for more than 3 years. After this time we recommend a new bottle. Make sure the cap is closed tightly after each use.

CLR is safe on grass, bushes, shrubs, plants, flowerbeds and all types of flora. We strongly recommend watering the area where the CLR runs down, lands or hits before and after using the CLR.

We do not recommend using our CLR Pro Calcium, Lime & Rust Remover on granite, however our CLR Pro Bath & CLR Pro Kitchen Cleaner are safe on granite.

No, Jelmar DOES NOT RECOMMEND using CLR on a water heater; however, there is a site that does. Again, JELMAR DOES NOT RECOMMEND THE USE OF CLR IN A BOILER. The reasons why Jelmar does not recommend CLR to clean a boiler are: 1) the heat is not compatible with CLR; 2) the water heater cannot be flushed quickly and thoroughly with cold, clean water; 3) the water heater may contain internal metals that are not compatible with CLR.

Yes. You can use CLR on vinyl siding as long as it is diluted within two minutes and rinsed thoroughly from the surface. Studies have shown that the top coat of siding will be compromised if CLR is left on the surface at full strength for five minutes or more.

Yes, CLR is fiber safe. Start with a mixture of CLR and water and increase to full strength if necessary.

Add ½ cup of CLR Pro calcium, limescale and rust remover to the soap dispenser... only use ¼ cup if the machine is HE (High Efficiency) as it uses less water than a conventional washing machine. Run a normal cycle followed by an additional rinse cycle.

No, CLR should never be used on clothing. Find a suitable stain remover or detergent. If CLR is spilled on the fabric, rinse immediately. It can lighten the fabric due to the brightening power of lactic acid.

Yes you can, but it must be uncolored or stamped concrete versus color paver.

No, CLR should not be used to clean carpets. Find a suitable carpet cleaner.

Yes, CLR is great for cleaning pet bowls and bacteria that normal soap won't remove! Dilute equal parts hot water and CLR to clean ceramic, stainless steel or plastic bowls. Leave on for 2 minutes and use a sponge or brush to shake and rinse thoroughly with cold water.

If the filter for the compressor is made of stainless steel 304, polypropylene over polypropylene and glass over stainless steel 316, CLR can be used! Some filters also have cotton over the stainless steel. I don't know how well this holds up after cleaning with CLR. Maybe they should try an experiment with an old filter. We've never had a problem with CLR and cotton balls or cotton pads in the lab for experiments.

Concerns a thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO), plastic roof. A contractor came in and installed rusty equipment washing away stains on the roof and wants to remove the rust marks left on the roof by the other contractor using our CLR.

It should be fine, we're concerned about the color of the material, so this is what needs to be done. 1) do not apply in the sun 2) mix 50/50 with water. 3) Apply to a small area then rinse and dry. 4) Wait 24 hours to see if there are any effects. 5) Continue if you are happy with the results.

According to the CLR Pro label, one of the "Do Not Use" surfaces is natural stone. Texas and the Southwest generally use concrete and stone mixed together, and the mixture is applied to the exterior of commercial buildings in the same manner as stucco.

Natural stone is anything that is porous/soft, such as limestone, terrazzo, marble, slate, some granite...although granite is a harder stone, meaning it is not as soft or porous as the others mentioned, so be careful with this material. It is only OK if the granite is sealed and the seller says that this product has been successfully used on sealed headstones of granite cemeteries. The dilution has been reduced from 1 part to 8 parts water and always test before full use. Some customers who used CLR on unsealed granite said it worked fine without clouding the granite, which happens on marble because CLR is too acidic for the soft stone (or has a low pH of about 2).

You cannot use CLR on painted surfaces with stucco. But if the stucco is white (natural color), then it's good. But most stucco is painted (for example, houses in Florida, California, and southwestern states like Texas) and CLR will lighten and break down the paint. I'm sure the same goes for the other similar material, which is concrete mixed with stone.

Many warehouse and factory floors are sealed and appear shiny.
All concrete floors that are generally sealed are made of epoxy, which is based on an acid that is reactive. Neutral detergents (pH 9) are only recommended for cleaning sealed surfaces. Grease magnet may only work if diluted 50/50 with water. The problem is that the pH is 11.5.

East Texas has many dairy farms and each truck must be cleaned after pumping the milk from the tanker at the processing plants.
Yes, CLR can be used to clean the milk tankers which are ONLY stainless steel (which, in the opinion of the supplier, most tankers are). If you want to use diluted again, 1 part CLR to 8 parts water, that is sufficient. Then rinse with cold water. The only problem, according to the supplier, is that this product is not approved for food. The user should follow the CLR treatment with a food grade detergent after rinsing with cold water.

We do not recommend CLR on colored concrete as it will lighten the color and disrupt the finish.

No CLR has been used in water parks to date.

We do not recommend using CLR products on metals other than chrome or stainless steel. Any "polished" finish usually has a coating and most nickel materials are combined metals (containing zinc) and CLR products can degrade the finish.

CLR Calcium, Lime and Rust, mix 1 part CLR with 8 parts water, leave for 10-15 minutes and then rinse thoroughly with cold water. These tanks are usually made of porcelain or glass or even plastic, which is fine.

NO. The word "sanitize" indicates that you have an EPA-approved product that has been tested.

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While they both come from the fine CLR family, they are formulated differently and solve different cleaning problems. See each product label for recommended use along with helpful information on our website.

Always use CLR Bathroom and Kitchen Cleaner in a well-ventilated area while wearing household rubber gloves and test an inconspicuous area of ​​the surface before cleaning. When cleaning, apply the solution to a clean damp cloth, sponge, brush or directly to the surface to be cleaned, let the foam work and then rinse with clean, cold water. Never leave the solution on a surface for more than two or three minutes. Repeat the process if the stain persists. Do not use CLR Bathroom & Kitchen Cleaner with other detergents or bleaches. Never reuse the bottle when it is empty.

No. It is only safe to use on white grout. If used on colored caulk, over time it will lighten or discolor the caulk.

No. The active ingredients in CLR Bathroom & Kitchen Cleaner react with the marble.

No, CLR Bathroom & Kitchen Cleaner should not be used in a washing machine or dishwasher. The cleaning agents in the product can foam too much when stirred. For these applications use CLR in the gray bottle.

No. The two products have different ingredients and, as with any cleaning product, should never be mixed with another cleaning product.

Yes. You can use CLR Bathroom and Kitchen Cleaner on vinyl upholstery as long as it is diluted and rinsed thoroughly from the surface in less than two minutes. Studies have shown that the top finish of the garment is compromised if CLR Full Strength Bathroom and Kitchen Cleaner is left on the surface for five minutes or more.

Only if the shower cubicle does not have a plastic coating. Be sure to test a small, hidden area before cleaning the entire shower and wipe it down to check for side effects.

Yes, CLR Bathroom & Kitchen is absolutely safe for acrylic. Follow the directions on the bottle and make sure to rinse after 2-3 minutes.

Do not use on stone, mirrors, plastic laminates, wood, textiles, painted surfaces or wall coverings.

Yes, CLR is great for cleaning pet bowls and bacteria that normal soap won't remove! Just spray CLR Bath & Kitchen on the bowl, which can be a ceramic, stainless steel or plastic bowl. Leave on for 2 minutes and use a sponge or brush to shake and rinse thoroughly with cold water.

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As stated in the directions for use (see "Instructions for use" below), Grease Magnet should only be left on a surface for 1-5 minutes and then rinsed off. If the stain persists, application of Grease Magnet can be repeated.

To use grease magnet, wipe the area from heavy dirt and dust. For stains such as tar or heavy grease, scrape off as much as possible with a putty knife before cleaning. While wearing household rubber gloves, test a small, hidden area of ​​the surface first before cleaning the main area. Pour or brush with full force on an area no larger than 12 x 12 inches. Allow the solution to soak in for one to five minutes, depending on the size and severity of the stain. Clean the area with a clean brush or broom until the stain comes off. Immediately rinse with cold, clean water. If necessary, repeat the process. Do not use CLR Grease Magnet with other cleaners, bleaches or acids. When cleaning near grass or shrubs, rinse the grass and shrubs before and after cleaning.

If the grease magnet stays on too long and starts to dry, it can be very difficult to remove.

Grease magnet can be used on concrete, terrazzo, granite, asphalt, stone floors and grills to remove oil, grease and tar. You can use CLR grease magnet for factory and garage floors, pool decks, sidewalks, ovens and driveways. Surfaces with a high oil/wax content can be adversely affected.

Safety Data Sheet for CLR Pro Grease Magnet

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Use in septic systems up to 1,500 gallons. Shake before use. Use the measuring window on the side of the bottle to pour 1/3 of the bottle directly into a toilet or drain each month. CLR Septic System Treatment is safe on pipes and porcelain and works on fats, oils, greases and other stubborn organic material.

A septic system is a self-contained underground wastewater treatment system. The septic system consists of a septic tank and a leach/absorption room.

The purpose of the tank is to treat household waste. The tank treats the waste by letting the water fall to the bottom, driving the lighter solids to the top and allowing the heavier waste/sludge to go to the bottom. The sludge/solids that fall to the bottom must be treated with a septic system treatment to convert these materials into liquids, which will then flow to the drain field.

Visit our "Where to buy" section of the website for a full list of participating retailers.

Yes, CLR Septic System Treatment can be used in an RV or RV. Call us 800# (800-323-5497) to find out the correct amount for your vehicle.

No more 104 degrees Fahrenheit. (40 degrees Celsius), otherwise the bacteria will die. The MSDS says, "Keep in a cool place away from heat." Cool means 68 to 77, so no more than 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

Bacteria and enzymes are two different types. Bacteria reproduce (it's what keeps the organic matter breaking down, and it works on contact), while enzymes are usually specific to what you want to do (need to sit down and come to life, so it takes "specific time and working conditions").

The microbes in CLR Septic use organic matter found in septic tanks as a food source. Because it is their food source, the microbes digest the carbon chains, the organic matter, and release a small amount of harmless natural by-product. The CLR Septic formulation does not contain free enzymes, soaps, surfactants or other agents that liquefy, dissolve or change organic matter to a soluble state. CLR septic microbes DEGRADE organic matter, they do not emulsify it.

Unlike the new CLR Septic formulation, conventional septic products use microbes PLUS emulsifiers such as free enzymes, soaps and surfactants. For example, these emulsifiers can change solidified animal and vegetable fats, oils and fats from a solid state to a liquid state that can be mixed with the gray water of a septic system and flow out into a drain or leech field. This course of action can potentially promote clogging of folded or tangled soil that can impede proper drainage in a septic drain field. This is one of the main reasons why EPA's Design for the Environment will not recognize microbial septic formulations containing emulsifiers and why the CLR Septic formulation has been the only DfE approved microbial septic formulation in the history of the program to date.

The product should not be used in a portable container. They use a lot of chemicals and fragrances here and it will kill the bacteria. Not a good point of application.

Trio Supply serves a large group of health clubs in the MN area. They have a big problem controlling the smell in the shower drains. I know septic or cdl>t will help with odors but will it break down the soap scum that collects in the drains

The product may be used in the men's showers, but only after the showers are out of use and not used. Pour about 2 to 4 oz. in every drain. The product breaks down the soap scum and controls the odor. When I say the showers are not used, we want to give the product as much residence time as possible in the shower's p-traps before it is flushed down the line and moved down the drain lines to the sewer or septic tank.

CLR SST, you should add 2 1/2 tsp to a tablespoon each time you clean the tanks - that's for a 100 gallon tank.

It is a multistrain (2 strains) Pseudomonas bacteria

There are 378 billion cfu (colony-forming units) per gallon.

Yes you can, but it's not designed to work on hard, exposed surfaces as it needs to be in a humid environment to thrive. In this case it is better to use Grease Magnet.

As for the specific hydrocarbon removal application, if the environment permits, should you use a wet towel on the treated area covered with poly to keep the environment moist?

You're right. Our technical manager said the bacteria would eat the oil (hydrocarbon) but extreme care would be needed to maintain the environment to complete the application. He also said that soil with oil or petroleum present could be treated with the bacteria as long as it was kept moist. The soil should be stirred first to expose as much surface area as possible.

So if a customer needs a green oil remover, Septic or CDL>T will fit the eco-friendly profile and get the job done if used correctly.

MSDS for CLR Pro Septic Treatment System

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No more 104 degrees Fahrenheit. (40 degrees Celsius), otherwise the bacteria will die. The MSDS says, "Keep in a cool place away from heat." Cool means 68 to 77, so no more than 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

Bacteria and enzymes are two different types. Bacteria reproduce (it's what keeps the organic matter breaking down, and it works on contact), while enzymes are usually specific to what you want to do (need to sit down and come to life, so it takes "specific time and working conditions").

The microbes in CLR Septic use organic matter found in septic tanks as a food source. Because it is their food source, the microbes digest the carbon chains, the organic matter, and release a small amount of harmless natural by-product. The CLR Septic formulation does not contain free enzymes, soaps, surfactants or other agents that liquefy, dissolve or change organic matter to a soluble state. CLR septic microbes DEGRADE organic matter, they do not emulsify it.

Unlike the new CLR Septic formulation, conventional septic products use microbes PLUS emulsifiers such as free enzymes, soaps and surfactants. For example, these emulsifiers can change solidified animal and vegetable fats, oils and fats from a solid state to a liquid state that can be mixed with the gray water of a septic system and flow out into a drain or leech field. This course of action can potentially promote clogging of folded or tangled soil that can impede proper drainage in a septic drain field. This is one of the main reasons why EPA's Design for the Environment will not recognize microbial septic formulations containing emulsifiers and why the CLR Septic formulation has been the only DfE approved microbial septic formulation in the history of the program to date.

Trio Supply serves a large group of health clubs in the MN area. They have a big problem controlling the smell in the shower drains. I know septic or cdl>t will help with odors but will it break down the soap scum that collects in the drains.

MSDS voor CLR Pro grease trap treatment

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Before using Tarn-X, use soap and warm water to remove any dirt or grime. Rinse with cold water and dry before using Tarn-X. While wearing rubber household gloves, dip a cotton ball or soft cloth in Tarn-X and wipe affected areas. For larger objects Tarn-X is applied at full strength of approx. 1/3 of the article at a time, then rinse thoroughly. For heavily tarnished pieces, repeat the above process until all tarnish is dissolved. Tarn-X only removes stains. Always apply Tarn-X Silver Polish after using Tarn-X for optimum shine. After using Tarn-X, rinse immediately with cold water and dry with a soft cloth. Never let Tarn-X sit on anything for more than two minutes and always test Tarn-X on a small area before cleaning the entire piece. Clean up spilled material immediately. Some laminated surfaces (table tops) are coated with a synthetic material that can be affected by Tarn-X.

We recommend using a cotton ball or soft cloth for best application. However, it may be easier to dip smaller items (such as sterling silver jewelry). It is important to IMMEDIATELY rinse with cold water and do not allow Tarn-X to dry. Never hold Tarn-X on an item for more than two minutes.

Tarn-X cleans sterling silver, silver plate, platinum, copper, gold and even diamonds. Do not use Tarn-X on poorly plated silver, silver with scratches or marred surfaces, or anything that is not in good condition. Do not mix gold and silver objects when cleaning with Tarn-X.

Rinsing with cold water Immediately after use is one of the most important steps. If not completely rinsed off, Tarn-X can darken or discolor your silver. If cleaning multiple items, always rinse and dry each piece of towel before moving on to the next item.

Silver can turn golden or dark gray if Tarn-X stays on the silver too long and/or dries.

To remove the discoloration, fill a small bowl with 1/2 warm water, 1/2 Tarn-X, and two drops of dish soap (Palmolive, Joy, etc.). Wash the item containing the mixture with a soft, clean cloth and rinse immediately with cool, clean water. Wipe the item with a soft, clean cloth. As a final step, apply a silver polish, such as Tarn-X® Silver Polish, to protect the item. This should restore your piece to its original condition. For large items, make sure to clean about 1/3 of the item at a time.

If Tarn-X is left on for too long and allowed to dry, it may discolour. See instructions above to remove the discoloration.

Tarn-X should never be used on or near stainless steel as it may stain or discolor. This includes stainless steel cutlery and sinks.

Only if your knives are silver plated or silver plated. Be careful! Your knives may appear "silver" but have stainless steel blades with silver-plated handles. If Tarn-X is used on the stainless steel blade, it will discolor. Look on the blade of your knife for a silver or stainless steel stamp or contact the manufacturer. When in doubt, test in a small, hidden area. See the following questions to potentially resolve this issue.

To try to remove the stain, immediately clean the discolored area with baking soda applied with cold water and a soft cloth or steel wool. Be careful not to scratch the surface. Also, try running very cold water over the discoloration until it disappears. If this does not work, use a stainless steel and aluminum cleaner such as CLR® Metal Clear to try and remove the stain.

Artificially oxidized silver is silver that has undergone a chemical treatment to change its appearance and shine. It gives silver a smoky, almost black appearance. DO NOT use Tarn-X on artificially oxidized silver as it will remove the artificial oxidation treatment from the silver.

No, Tarn-X is not safe to use on brass. This is because brass is an alloy of copper and zinc and the acids in Tarn-X attack zinc.

Tarn-X has probably stood too long and/or allowed to dry for too long. To remove the discoloration, use a copper cream or polish and follow the instructions to restore the shine.

The odor is the active ingredients in Tarn-X that come into contact with tarnish. This indicates that the tarnish, which is sulfur, is actually removed with Tarn-X.

Yes. Avoid contact with your clothing when working with Tarn-X products. Tarn-X can stain or discolor fabrics/clothing.

Tarn-X Tarnish Remover is considered hazardous waste. We recommend that you contact your local municipality for proper disposal of hazardous materials.

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