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methods
1Isolation of a chicken to examine and clean wounds
2 Healing of the wounds and reintegration of the bird
3Reducing the risk of severe stuttering
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Co-author ofRyan Corrigan, LVT, VTS-EVNInChristopher M. Osborne, ph.d
Last updated: April 11, 2021approved
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Chickens peck at everything around them as a natural behavior, including other chickens. However, if the typical pecking becomes aggressive, it can lead to injuries that require immediate treatment or the aggressive pecking behavior will spread. Remove the injured bird from the flock, dress its wounds and carefully reintegrate it once it has healed. Also provide a good environment that reduces the urge to aggressive pecking.
Method1
Method 1 of 3:
Isolation of a chicken to examine and clean wounds
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1
Watch carefully for signs of chip damage.Observe your flock at least 2-3 times per day for pecking activity beyond typical gentle pecking. Whether or not you observe aggressive pecking, assume a pecking wound if you see broken or missing feathers on a bird, especially if accompanied by bleeding or bruising.[1]
- Do not confuse chopping damage with felling. When a chicken is molting, the feathers will be crooked and not broken or damaged.
- Mild pecking is normal behavior associated with the hierarchy – the 'pecking order' – that develops in a herd. Severe pecking is abnormal but not unusual behavior in chickens.[2]
2
Remove the injured chicken from the flock immediately.Immediate isolation of the injured bird is important for three reasons. Firstly, it significantly increases the chicken's chances of recovery. Second, severe pecking is a learned behavior that can spread quickly through a herd. Third, bleeding wounds are a magnet for picking that can lead to cannibalism, which is also a learned behavior in a herd.[3]
- If you can identify a particular bird that is pecking severely, remove it from the flock and keep it isolated while the injured bird heals (in separate isolation). You can try reintegrating both into the flock (first the injured bird, then the attacking bird) once the chopped chicken has healed.
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3
Set up a well-equipped isolation cage for the injured bird.The isolation cage should be set up as a smaller versionprimary housing. Make sure he has proper bedding, a food bowl, a water bottle, enrichment materials (i.e. things the bird can peck at), and so on.[4]
- The insulation cage must be at least 91 x 61 x 61 cm. A medium or large dog kennel cage makes a good "chicken hospital" for isolation and treatment.[5]
- If you are also isolating an attacking bird, place a similar isolation cage in a separate location.
4
See AlsoOregano for Chickens - Backyard PoultryThe pecking order | British Hen Welfare TrustHow to stop bullying when introducing new chickens to the flockHow do I know if my chicken is sick?- My chicken for petsPut on gloves and stop the bleeding with a clean cloth.After you have isolated the injured bird, put on vinyl gloves and hold a clean cloth against the wound until active bleeding stops.Hold the chickensafe in your arms while you try to keep it as calm as possible.[6]
- Dish gloves are a good option to protect your hands while handling the chicken.
- If the wound is not actively bleeding, skip this step (but still wear gloves).
5
Rinse the area with water and examine the wound.While holding the bird tightly, pour clean, lukewarm water over the wound to rinse away any dried blood and dirt. Push any feathers out of the way to get a good look at the wound.[7]
- If the wound is mainly red and bruised, with some areas of bleeding, you can probably nurse the chick back to health yourself.
6
In case of serious and/or internal injuries, seek the help of a poultry veterinarian.If the bleeding doesn't stop, the wound covers a large area, or the nick has penetrated deep into the flesh, you probably won't be able to heal the chicken yourself. Call a veterinarian who specializes in poultry.[8]
- However, finding a veterinarian who cares for injured chickens can be difficult. They may be willing to euthanize the chicken for you, or you can decide if you are willing and able to humanely euthanize the chicken yourself.
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Method2
Method 2 of 3:
Healing of the wounds and reintegration of the bird
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1
Apply wound spray under continuous isolation for best results.After rinsing and inspecting the wound, apply a poultry wound care spray to the injured area. Use the spray 3 times a day, or as directed on the package, until the injury has healed.[9]
- You can find poultry wound spray at agricultural supply stores.
- The chicken must remain isolated until the wound heals, otherwise pecking will most likely resume.
2
Apply a concealing wound spray to reintegrate a healing bird.If you want or need to return the bird to the flock while it heals, use a wound spray that has been pre-colored; these are usually blue or purple in color. The dye hides the wound so that other chickens do not peck at it.
- Seeing a wound, especially a bleeding one, encourages the other chickens to keep pecking at it. It can also encourage fighting or other aggressive behavior. The colored spray hides the blood and wound.
- Follow the instructions on the packaging for using the product. You can also find wound-covering sprays in farm shops.
- This is a less effective option than keeping the bird isolated during treatment.
3
Offer plenty of water, supplemented with electrolytes.During the healing process of the injured chicken, make sure that it always has plenty of fresh water. To further promote healing, also add an electrolyte supplement to the water supply.[10]
- You don't need to feed the bird more than normal, and you don't have to worry if it eats less than normal for a few days. But make sure it stays hydrated.
- You can purchase electrolyte supplements from pet suppliers or feed stores. Some are available in powder form, others are drops. For example, the packaging may state that you should add one packet of powder of 7.1 grams to 3.8 liters of water daily for up to five days.
4
Integrate the bird slowly and check it at least 5 times a day.Once the injured bird has healed, it slowly integrates back into the flock, almost as if it were a new bird. For example, you can place the temporary cage right next to the main enclosure for a few days before releasing the bird into the flock. Once he's back with the flock, keep a close eye on the bird for signs of pecking damage.[11]
- If the bird is aggressively exploited again, you may need to remove it permanently.
- If you have isolated a bird that was pecking aggressively, slowly reintegrate it and monitor it in the same way. If he starts pecking aggressively again, remove him permanently.
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Method3
Method 3 of 3:
Reduces the risk of serious stuttering
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1
Choose birds that are bred for reduced pecking behavior.Although aggressive pecking – which sometimes leads to cannibalism – is largely a learned behavior in a herd, there is also a hereditary component. Pecking behavior can be reduced through selective breeding, so ask any chicken breeders you use about the pecking behavior of their breeding stock.[12]
- Picking cannot be completely eradicated; it is an innate behavior in chickens. And even birds bred to be less sensitive to pecking can become aggressive peckers or even cannibals in poorly maintained conditions.
2
Ensure there is sufficient distance from your chickens in their enclosure.Not surprisingly, when chickens are crowded and need space, they are more likely to peck at each other. In general, the more space you give your birds to roam, the less likely they are to peck aggressively.[13]
- Provide at least 0.46 m² of space2) of land area per bird.[14]
- However, this is not a panacea. Even free-ranging chickens can exhibit aggressive pecking behavior.
3
Provide comfortable temperatures and lighting in the closet.If the temperature in the coop falls below 70°F (21°C) or above 95°F (35°C), the chicks' discomfort can encourage aggressive pecking. Likewise, chicks will become irritated and more likely to peck if they are exposed to more than 16 hours of light per day.[15]
- Provide an adequate heat source for the garden as needed in cooler weather, or provide ventilation if the garden gets too hot in summer.
- If you use artificial lighting, use a timer to limit when the lights are on. 12-16 hours of light per day (including daylight) is ideal to promote egg production.
4
Provide sufficient nutrition and encourage foraging behavior.Feed high-quality chicken feed that is nutritionally balanced. In addition, you can sprinkle up to 1 teaspoon (5 g) of food at a time in the chicken enclosure and cover it with straw, grass clippings or green leaves.[16]
- Searching for food keeps the chicks busy and allows them to engage in safe pecking behavior.
- Chickens that lack essential nutrients or are malnourished may resort to cannibalistic pecking in search of adequate nutrition.
5
Provide sufficient enrichment material to keep the birds busy.If you give chickens other things to peck and play with, they are less likely to peck at each other. Try adding more of the following to the closet:[17]
- Chopping blocks, available in feed stores. You just need to spread them throughout the garden.
- Pieces of your (living) Christmas tree after the end of the season. Cut the tree into 3 or more sections and place them in the garden.
- Old footballs or soccer balls. They can be fully or partially inflated.
- Lengths of rope or polypropylene yarn. Tie 8-10 of them to the ceiling of the cage so that they hang down about 4 inches. 15 cm from the ground.
- CDs or half-filled plastic water bottles. Tie them to the end of the rope you strung from the ceiling.
6
Ensure a flock size of less than or more than 30 birds.Anecdotal evidence suggests that flocks of around 30 birds are most likely to result in aggressive pecking. With smaller flocks, the birds are better able to establish a stable social hierarchy ("pecking order"), in which each bird recognizes all the others.[18]
- On the other side of the coin, the sheer size of larger herds completely weakens the hierarchy and reduces the urge to peck as a means of social control.
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Things you need
- Insulation bur
- Wound care spray for poultry
- Electrolyte additive
- Enrichment materials
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References
- ↑ https://www.wur.nl/upload_mm/c/3/1/2fc732ad-f7a7-40c9-aa55-a7f8a7fafa45_8412101743_ASGV_Kippenwaaier_UK.pdf
- ↑ https://poultry.extension.org/articles/poultry-behavior/feather-pecking-and-cannibalism-in-small-and-backyard-poultry-flocks/
- ↑ https://poultry.extension.org/articles/poultry-behavior/feather-pecking-and-cannibalism-in-small-and-backyard-poultry-flocks/
- ↑ https://www.farmhealthonline.com/US/disease-management/poultry-diseases/poultry-feather-pecking/
- ↑ https://the-chicken-chick.com/how-to-care-for-injured-chicken-and/
- ↑ https://the-chicken-chick.com/how-to-care-for-injured-chicken-and/
- ↑ https://the-chicken-chick.com/how-to-care-for-injured-chicken-and/
- ↑ https://extension.psu.edu/poultry-cannibalism-prevention-and-treatment
- ↑ https://extension.psu.edu/poultry-cannibalism-prevention-and-treatment
More references (9)
- ↑ https://the-chicken-chick.com/how-to-care-for-injured-chicken-and/
- ↑ https://the-chicken-chick.com/how-to-care-for-injured-chicken-and/
- ↑ https://poultry.extension.org/articles/poultry-behavior/feather-pecking-and-cannibalism-in-small-and-backyard-poultry-flocks/
- ↑ https://www.farmhealthonline.com/US/disease-management/poultry-diseases/poultry-feather-pecking/
- ↑ http://www.allaboutchickens.info/better-chicken-coop-run/
- ↑ https://poultry.extension.org/articles/poultry-behavior/feather-pecking-and-cannibalism-in-small-and-backyard-poultry-flocks/
- ↑ https://www.wur.nl/upload_mm/c/3/1/2fc732ad-f7a7-40c9-aa55-a7f8a7fafa45_8412101743_ASGV_Kippenwaaier_UK.pdf
- ↑ https://www.wur.nl/upload_mm/c/3/1/2fc732ad-f7a7-40c9-aa55-a7f8a7fafa45_8412101743_ASGV_Kippenwaaier_UK.pdf
- ↑ https://poultry.extension.org/articles/poultry-behavior/feather-pecking-and-cannibalism-in-small-and-backyard-poultry-flocks/
About this article
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Ryan Corrigan, LVT, VTS-EVN
Licensed veterinary technician
This article was co-authored byRyan Corrigan, LVT, VTS-EVNand by wikiHow staff writer,Christopher M. Osborne, ph.d. Ryan Corrigan is a licensed veterinary technician in California. She received her Bachelor of Science in Veterinary Technology from Purdue University in 2010. Since 2011, she has also been a member of the Academy of Equine Veterinary Nursing Technicians. This article has been viewed 65,435 times.
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